Grape variety
Garganega
Garganega, the grape of Soave: origin, volcanic soils, Gambellara, Recioto di Soave, style and what to eat with it.
- Colour
- White
- Origin
- Veneto, according to the Soave consortium one of Italy’s oldest varieties; parents unknown, closely related to Trebbiano Toscano and Albana
- Main regions
- Soave and Gambellara in the Veneto, Bianco di Custoza, Colli Berici; as Grecanico Dorato also in Sicily
- Typical aromas
- Almond, green apple, white blossom, lemon; saltiness and a slightly bitter almond note on the finish
- Classic pairing
- Asparagus risotto, freshwater fish, vegetables, poultry
- Synonyms
- Grecanico Dorato (Sicily), Garganega comune
Garganega is the grape of Soave and, according to the Soave consortium, one of Italy’s oldest varieties. Its parents are unknown, but DNA studies show a close relationship with several other Italian whites, among them Trebbiano Toscano, Albana and Catarratto. In Sicily the same grape grows under the name Grecanico Dorato. Its heartland lies east of Verona, around the villages of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone, and in neighbouring Gambellara, in the province of Vicenza. The FAO recognised Soave’s traditional vineyards in 2018 as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS), and the appellation averages about 50 million bottles a year.
The vine ripens late and grows vigorously. On fertile plains it gives high yields and thin, neutral wines; on the slopes and at restrained yields it gives wines with depth, with almond, green apple, white blossom and lemon, a fine saltiness and a slightly bitter almond note on the finish. It is traditionally trained on the Veronese pergola, and picked from late September into October. Acidity is its backbone, which makes it suitable for ageing and for sweet wines.
The soil shapes the style. The Soave zone, with about 6,500 hectares and 13 communes, has volcanic hills with a basaltic substrate in the east and limestone hills in the west. According to the consortium, the volcanic sites give fresh, mineral, powerful wines, the limestone sites more elegant, floral and fruity ones. Soave must contain at least 70 per cent Garganega, the rest being Trebbiano di Soave and Chardonnay; Soave Classico comes from the historic hills, and Soave Superiore has been DOCG since 2001. Gambellara, a small DOC from 1970 with at least 80 per cent Garganega, lies on basalt and tuff at the edge of the Lessini mountains.
Garganega also makes sweet wines. Recioto di Soave, recognised in 1998 as the first DOCG of the Veneto, is made from grapes dried for several months; Recioto di Gambellara followed in 2008. Dry, Soave is a versatile companion: it suits the aperitif, asparagus risotto, freshwater fish, vegetables and poultry without pushing itself forward. Whoever wants more than a simple Soave will look for a Soave Classico or a Soave Superiore. Since 2019 the regulations have also recognised 33 additional geographical units (UGA) that may appear on the label.