Grape variety
Silvaner
Silvaner, called Johannisberg in Valais: about 330 hectares, nearly all in the Rhône valley, Chamoson its stronghold. Origin, character and pairings.
- Colour
- White
- Origin
- Austria; a natural cross of Savagnin (Heida) and Österreichisch Weiss
- Grown in Switzerland
- About 330 hectares, 99 per cent of them in Valais, above all at Chamoson
- Typical aromas
- Pear, apple, almond, lime blossom; pineapple when fully ripe
- Classic pairing
- Valais asparagus, apéritif, fish, veal
- Synonym
- Johannisberg, Gros Rhin (Valais); Sylvaner (Alsace)
Silvaner is one of the great white grapes of central Europe, the variety of Franconia and Alsace. Genetically it is a natural cross of Savagnin and Österreichisch Weiss, an old and now almost extinct variety; its home is therefore Austria. For Swiss wine drinkers there is a pleasing twist: Savagnin is the same grape that grows in Valais as Heida or Païen. Silvaner and Heida are thus close relatives standing side by side in the same valley.
The grape reached the Rhône valley in the mid-19th century and was given a name of its own there. It was called Johannisberg after the famous Rheingau estate of Schloss Johannisberg, although Riesling grows there, not Silvaner. It was also known as Gros Rhin, as opposed to Petit Rhin, the Riesling. Both names show that the Valaisans saw it as a Rhine wine. Today there are about 330 hectares in Switzerland, 99 per cent of them in Valais, where Johannisberg is the second white grape after Chasselas. Its stronghold is Chamoson, the largest wine commune in the canton, at the foot of the Haut de Cry: on the light, limestone scree cone the grape ripens with particular reliability, and the village rightly calls itself the home of Johannisberg.
In the glass Johannisberg is a friendly, rounded wine: pear, apple, lime blossom and almond on the nose, on the palate rather low acidity, a full body and a fine bitter almond note on the finish that sets it apart from Fendant. In ripe years notes of pineapple appear. Most wines are made dry and drunk young, but the best sites age surprisingly well and bring honey and hazelnut into play after ten years or more. Picked late, the grape also suits sweet wine and may be made as a flétri under the Grain Noble ConfidenCiel charter.
The classic partner is asparagus: in spring, when the first Valais asparagus is cut, a glass of Johannisberg belongs on the table, because its gentle bitterness and softness suit the vegetable where acidic wines fail. It is also an ideal apéritif wine and goes with freshwater fish, veal and mild cheeses. Serve it at 10 to 12 degrees.
Outside Valais the grape is hard to find in Switzerland; a few hectares in Vaud, almost nothing in the German-speaking part. Anyone who knows Silvaner should still try Johannisberg: the dry, sunny Valais climate turns this often neutral grape into a fuller, warmer wine than in Franconia.