Grape variety
Montepulciano
Montepulciano, the grape of Abruzzo: its origin, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Rosso Conero, how it differs from Vino Nobile, character and food.
- Colour
- Red
- Origin
- Central Italy, most likely Abruzzo; a variety in its own right, not identical to Sangiovese
- Main regions
- Abruzzo (more than half the area), Marche, Molise, Puglia; about 30,000 hectares
- Typical aromas
- Plum, black cherry, blackberry, spice; deep colour, soft tannins
- Classic pairing
- Arrosticini (lamb skewers), spaghetti alla chitarra, pizza, grilled meat
- Not to be confused with
- Vino Nobile di Montepulciano: a Sangiovese from the Tuscan town
With Montepulciano you first have to separate two things: the town and the grape. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano comes from the Tuscan town of that name and is a Sangiovese (at least 70 per cent), called Prugnolo Gentile there. The Montepulciano grape has nothing to do with it. It is a variety in its own right, most likely from Abruzzo; no demonstrable link to the town exists, and DNA shows it is not identical to Sangiovese either, although the two were long confused.
With about 30,000 hectares, Montepulciano is among Italy’s most planted red varieties, more than half of it in Abruzzo; the rest is mostly in the Marche, Molise and Puglia. Abruzzo lies between the Adriatic and the Gran Sasso, the highest peak of the Apennines, and the vines grow on the hills in between. It buds late, ripens late and has thick, pigment-rich skins; grey rot and powdery mildew trouble it little. It is rare in the cooler north of Italy, because it needs warmth and a long ripening season.
The main appellation is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a DOC since 1968, with subzones such as Casauria, Terre dei Vestini and Alto Tirino. It must contain at least 85 per cent Montepulciano; the rest may come from other non-aromatic red varieties permitted in Abruzzo. The top is Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a DOCG since 2003 from the hills of the province of Teramo: at least 90 per cent Montepulciano, at most 10 per cent Sangiovese. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, also at least 85 per cent Montepulciano, is a cherry-coloured rosé. In the Marche, Rosso Conero, from Monte Conero near Ancona, is the best-known version; it contains at least 85 per cent Montepulciano, and the rest may be Sangiovese.
In the glass Montepulciano is dark and soft: plenty of colour, mild tannins, moderate acidity and aromas of plum, black cherry, blackberry and spice. That makes it approachable and the wine of straightforward cooking: arrosticini, the lamb skewers of Abruzzo, spaghetti alla chitarra, the pasta cut on a wire frame that is typical of Abruzzo, with ragù, pizza and grilled meat. Good bottles gain for a few more years; a simple Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is best young and lightly chilled, at around 16 degrees.