Grape variety
Nebbiolo
Nebbiolo, the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco: its Piedmont origin, Chiavennasca in Valtellina, character, regions and what to eat with it.
- Colour
- Red
- Origin
- Piedmont (Langhe); parents unknown, closely related to Freisa and Vespolina
- Main regions
- Piedmont (Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Gattinara), Valtellina in Lombardy
- Typical aromas
- Rose, violet, cherry, tar, liquorice; truffle and leather with age
- Classic pairing
- Beef braised in Barolo, tajarin with truffle, game, aged cheese
- Synonyms
- Chiavennasca (Valtellina), Spanna (Gattinara, Ghemme), Picotendro (Carema)
Nebbiolo is the grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco and one of Italy’s most demanding varieties. It belongs to Piedmont, where it already appears in the 13th century in documents from Rivoli near Turin as “nibiol”. The name probably comes from nebbia, the fog that lies over the hills of the Langhe in late October, when this late-ripening grape is picked. Its parents are unknown, but DNA analysis shows a close relationship with Freisa and Vespolina. Worldwide, Nebbiolo covers only about 6,000 hectares, almost all of it in Piedmont and Lombardy.
In the vineyard it is fussy: it buds early, ripens late and claims the best, sunniest slopes. Barolo and Barbaresco are both 100 per cent Nebbiolo. Barolo grows in eleven communes around Barolo, La Morra and Serralunga d’Alba on just over 2,000 hectares and must age at least 38 months, 18 of them in wood; the Riserva needs 62. Barbaresco, from the communes of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso on just over 700 hectares, requires 26 months (9 of them in wood), the Riserva 50. As a rule, wines from La Morra are softer and more perfumed, those from Serralunga firmer and longer-lived; Barbaresco is usually seen as a touch more elegant and sooner approachable.
Outside the Langhe, Nebbiolo goes by other names. In Gattinara and Ghemme in northern Piedmont it is Spanna, in Carema Picotendro. Its northernmost stronghold is the Valtellina, where it is called Chiavennasca and grows on steep, south-facing terraces just south of Graubünden; the Bernina line of the Rhaetian Railway runs down from Poschiavo to Tirano, at the eastern end of the area. Valtellina Superiore (DOCG, at least 90 per cent Nebbiolo) has five subzones: Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella. Sforzato di Valtellina is made from grapes that are dried for several weeks after picking and is a powerful, dry wine.
In the glass Nebbiolo is unmistakable: a pale ruby that soon turns garnet, firm tannins and high acidity. The aromas run from rose, violet and cherry through tar and liquorice to truffle, leather and tobacco with age. Young wines are often austere and closed; good Barolo gains over ten to twenty years. Nebbiolo wants food: beef braised in Barolo, tajarin with butter and white Alba truffle, game or aged cheese; with Valtellina wines, pizzoccheri and bresaola. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees and decant young bottles.